Through the Cracks of Time: Reuniting with Yading at the End of the Snow Mountains

Meta Description: Discover Daocheng Yading in 2022—a family road trip through western Sichuan's snow mountains, from Jiaxiala's turquoise lakes to the transformed Highway 318. Plan your reunion with Yading today.

Eleven years is long enough for a boy to become a man, and long enough for a muddy dirt road to transform into a smooth asphalt highway.

In May 2022, in the third year of the pandemic's endless waves, I finally pressed pause on life. I packed my family into the car and headed for western Sichuan—destination: Daocheng Yading. This wasn't a spontaneous trip. It was a reunion eleven years in the making.

Prologue: Traveling in the Pandemic Era—A Game of Uncertainty

If you ask me what you need most to travel in 2022, the answer isn't courage. It's patience. Patience to study ever-changing policies. Patience to make phone call after phone call for confirmation. Patience to accept the reality that "you can go today, but tomorrow you might be turned back."

A week before departure, we practically wore out the phone lines of the Garze Prefecture Tourism Bureau and the Yading Scenic Area. In April, the policy was still "three-day quarantine, two nucleic acid tests, and repatriation." But the day before we left, the rules loosened: Visitors from within the province could enter Garze freely with a negative nucleic acid test result within 48 hours. At that moment, the weight lifted.

As it turned out, this trip mirrored the weather of western Sichuan—after the gloom, the sun always breaks through. From clear blue skies on day one to a snowstorm where firefighters helped us put on tire chains. From dark clouds and hail at Milk Lake to the sudden parting of the clouds revealing the stunning Five-Color Lake. Every twist made the final encounter more precious.

If you're curious what National Highway 318 looked like eleven years ago—what it was like crossing the passes of Ga'ershi Mountain, Jianziwan Mountain, and Kazila Mountain—feel free to jump ahead to Day 2. For now, let me take you through this journey across time with a few photos.

Day 1: Jiaxiala and Sidingcuo—Unexpected Wonders in Western Sichuan

Jiaxiala (Red Lake): Love at First Sight in the Snow Mountains

Four and a half hours from Chengdu, we arrived at Zhonggu Village. As soon as the car crossed the snow line, the May snow-capped peaks emerged on the horizon, and our adrenaline surged. We stopped at the first pass—my daughter chased a herd of Tibetan fragrant pigs, completely forgetting we were at 4,200 meters above sea level.

We turned onto a side road on the left of the main highway, bumping along 200-300 meters of crater-like dirt track, until we reached Jiaxiala, known locally as Red Lake. No parking fee—just a 10 yuan cleaning charge. The moment I stepped to the water's edge, I froze. Under a flawless blue sky, snow mountains embraced the turquoise lake. The surface was a mirror, reflecting heaven and earth.

Recommended photo spot: A few small ponds on the left side of the lake make an excellent foreground for lake shots. Whether you're shooting landscapes or portraits, the results are stunning.

A word of caution: despite the clear skies, the wind carried snow, and the temperature felt much colder. Above 4,200 meters, don't get so excited that you run or shout—my wife started feeling dizzy after walking to the lake. Altitude sickness had arrived.

On the left bank, a slightly larger pond sat with a brown-yellow sandy bottom, its pure, transparent snowmelt water creating a striking color contrast with the turquoise lake beside it. Walking to the central path, I found several half-human-high mani piles facing the snow-capped mountain at the heart of the lake. I don't know its name, but I imagine that if this place is ever developed into a proper scenic area, it will be given a magnificent one.

Before leaving, I spotted a simple swing on the slope of the left bank. I sat down and swung gently—the sky and earth stretched wide. A perfect photo moment.

As we drove away, I looked back at Jiaxiala from the first bend in the main road. The panoramic view was breathtaking. Two focal lengths to recommend: 35mm and 50mm. Each has its own charm.

[Link: Best photography spots in Daocheng Yading]

Sidingcuo: A Small Pond with a Big Impact for Photographers

It took about half an hour to drive from Jiaxiala to Sidingcuo. We climbed all the way to Yala Pass (4,401 meters). The scene at the pass was surreal—on the Jiaxiala side, snow-covered peaks stood everywhere. But once we crossed the pass, the snow mountains vanished, and the altitude dropped sharply.

A short way down the main road, we spotted Kangding Airport. The road to Sidingcuo was a narrow track on the right side of the airport. Along the way, Mount Qingrao made for a great photo subject—standing alone on the flat plains, it was imposingly visible.

Honestly, your first glimpse of Sidingcuo will likely disappoint—especially after Jiaxiala. It's barely more than a puddle. But for photography, it's even more photogenic than Jiaxiala. With the snow mountain as a backdrop, just step slightly off the roadside, and you can capture a masterpiece.

I recommend circling the lake clockwise. On the far left, you can photograph Mount Qingrao, with a weather station adding a touch of atmosphere. Finally, on the opposite shore, you can get a distant shot of Mount Gongga—provided you have a telephoto lens. I used 50mm, and the results were mediocre. You'd need at least 100mm or more.

One complaint: Please, everyone, take care of the environment! The lakeshore was littered with trash. It made me want to curse. I still remember writing about Seda and Nianbaoyuze years ago—Nianbaoyuze was closed indefinitely by Qinghai Province because of hikers' garbage. I don't want to see that tragedy repeated.

[Link: Leave No Trace tips for Sichuan high-altitude lakes]

Day 2: Through the Cracks of Eleven Years—Yajiang to Shangri-La Town

From Mud Road to Asphalt: The Transformation of Highway 318

In 2022, the road from Yajiang to Litang was brand-new asphalt, smooth and easy. But eleven years ago, it was notorious for mud—the "Heavenly Road with Eighteen Bends"? That name didn't even exist back then, because the entire stretch was under construction, nothing but mud pits.

Let me show you what the Jianziwan Mountain Pass looked like eleven years ago: The old sign reading "4659m" is now a collector's item. The tunnel saves time today, but the views from the pass are gone forever.

Kazila Mountain is one of the few passes that remains. Since the terrain is flat and the road runs along the ridge, there's no need for a tunnel. The stretch from Kazila to Honglong is incredibly beautiful— above 4,000 meters, not a single tree, just endless meadows. But you need to go in June for the grass to be green. In May, it's still yellow and withered—a different kind of desolate beauty, though the weather was poor and the clouds too thick.

[Link: Highway 318 road trip guide for first-timers]

Litang: From "City on the Plateau" to "Dingzhen's Hometown"

After passing Honglong Township (now upgraded to Honglong Town), we reached Litang. Eleven years ago, Litang was just a small stopover town. The east gate opened onto grassland, and you had to walk two to three hundred meters to enter the city. Now? Buildings stretch for a full kilometer beyond the east gate. The city has expanded at least four or five times.

But the must-visit spot—the East Gate—is still there. It's just gone from being "outside the city" to "inside the city," surrounded by buildings.

We had lunch in Litang but skipped the Changqingchun Korsi Monastery—we needed to rush to Daocheng for a nucleic acid test. After leaving Litang, we climbed steadily, passing by Zhaga Sacred Mountain. The landscape was bizarre: surrounded by meadows and trees, this mountain stood like a giant boulder, completely barren. I wanted to stop and explore, but for the sake of the test... we'd catch it on the way back.

Rabbit Mountain lived up to its name. At 4,700 meters, the entire mountain was bare, covered in weathered gravel. But the rabbit—no explanation needed. You could spot it immediately: crouching there, ears perked up. And there was more than one.

[Link: Things to do in Litang beyond Dingzhen's hometown]

The Nucleic Acid Test Saga: A Modern Travel Necessity

Let's be honest—planning a trip in 2022 means factoring in testing logistics. After arriving in Daocheng, we headed straight for the county hospital. The process was straightforward: register, queue, swab, wait. Results came back in about 6 hours, just in time for our Yading entry the next day.

Pro tip: Schedule your test for late afternoon so results are ready by morning. Also, keep digital copies of all negative results—you'll need them at checkpoints and scenic area entrances.

Day 3: Reuniting with Yading—The End of the Snow Mountains

After two days of driving and testing, we finally arrived at the Yading Scenic Area. The entrance was orderly, with temperature checks and QR code scans. Once inside, the familiar landscape unfolded: the Three Holy Mountains—Chenresig (Jambeyang), Chana Dorje, and the majestic Mount Xiannairi—standing eternal against the sky.

We took the shuttle bus to Luorong Cattle Farm, then hiked to Milk Lake. The weather turned—hail pelted us, and clouds obscured the peaks. But as we reached Five-Color Lake, the clouds parted, revealing the stunning turquoise waters and snow-capped reflections. It was a reminder that patience, in travel as in life, is always rewarded.

FAQ: Planning Your Daocheng Yading Trip

Q: When is the best time to visit Daocheng Yading? A: June to October offers the best weather and scenery. May can be cold and yellow, but crowds are smaller. For green meadows, aim for June onward.

Q: Do I need to worry about altitude sickness? A: Yes. Daocheng is at 3,700 meters, and Yading hikes go above 4,500 meters. Acclimate in Chengdu or Kangding for a day. Bring medication, drink water, and avoid strenuous activity on day one.

Q: What should I pack for a Yading trip? A: Warm layers (even in summer), waterproof jacket, trekking poles, sunscreen, lip balm, snacks, and a reusable water bottle. Don't forget your phone charger—you'll take hundreds of photos.

Q: Is it safe to drive to Yading? A: Yes, but check road conditions. Highway 318 is well-maintained now, but winter and early spring can bring snow and ice. Carry tire chains, especially in May.

Q: Can I visit Yading without a guide? A: Absolutely. The scenic area is well-marked with shuttle buses and trails. For longer hikes like Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake, go early and bring a map.

Final Thoughts: Reuniting with Yading, Reuniting with Yourself

Eleven years changed everything—the roads, the towns, the policies. But the snow mountains remained. They stood as they always have, patient and eternal, waiting for travelers to find their way through the cracks of time.

If you're planning your own reunion with Yading, start now. Check the latest travel advisories, pack your patience, and hit the road. The journey will test you, but the reward—standing at the end of the snow mountains, watching the clouds part over Five-Color Lake—is worth every moment.