A Winter Night's Covenant of Stars and Sea of Clouds: Mount Emei, a Reunion Spanning a Decade
Meta Description: Discover the magic of Mount Emei in winter—from starry nights and sea of clouds to budget travel tips. One traveler's decade-long love affair with this sacred Sichuan peak.
Some places, once visited, become a lifelong attachment. For me, Mount Emei is exactly that. From the green graduate of 2007, carrying a worn-out backpack and a point-and-shoot camera, to the photography enthusiast of today, hauling a tripod and chasing the stars, I have set foot on this land countless times over the past ten years. Each time, it greets me with a different face—sometimes the disappointment of drizzling mist, sometimes the awe of rolling seas of clouds, sometimes the surprise of a brilliant starry sky. And this time, in the winter of 2016, I met it again, with a heart no longer restless, to gather those gentle moments scattered across the mountain top.
The Beginning: Those Years, My Time Machine with Mafengwo
One late night in 2016, I opened Mafengwo as usual, ready to document my latest trip. A button on the homepage, labeled "Time Machine," caught my attention. I clicked it, and on the screen slowly unfurled all the footprints I had left here since 2010—those naive words, those blurry photos, those memories polished bright by the years.
Six years. From initially just wanting a place to store my youth, to later habitually writing down every journey here, Mafengwo had become my most faithful chronicler. Even though countless travel platforms have emerged since, this place remains the corner I cherish most. It has witnessed my transformation from green to composed, from skimming the surface to feeling deeply.
In 2016, I told myself: keep moving, keep that spontaneous spirit, and make friends who are also on the road. And Mount Emei was the first destination of that year.
Fourth Time or Fifth? I Can't Remember, But Each Time Feels Like the First
Counting them up, this was already my fourth—maybe fifth—time climbing Mount Emei. So many times I've lost count, but each time feels as full of anticipation as the first.
This time, I didn't follow the traditional route. The temples at the foot of the mountain, the monkey zone, the Qingyin Pavilion—I knew them all by heart. I went straight to the point—the Golden Summit. That's where the essence of Mount Emei lies: the sea of clouds, the sunrise, the stars, and that unique tranquility belonging to the mountain top.
I stayed one night on the Golden Summit, and it felt like experiencing a full cycle of four seasons. During the day, we encountered the magnificent sea of clouds, that boundless white, as if gently wrapping the whole world. At night, when the last glow of sunset sank into the horizon, the stars arrived as promised. I set up my camera and used time-lapse to capture this moment—to me, the beauty of Mount Emei is dynamic, and only time-lapse can catch the rhythm of its breath.
Those Years, My Stories with Mount Emei
2007: The First Long Journey of My Life
In July of that year, I had just graduated from university and was about to start work in August. A classmate from Inner Mongolia said, "I'm leaving Sichuan soon. After four years of studying here, I haven't visited a single scenic spot, and I don't know when I'll ever come back." So we decided on a spontaneous trip—hiking Mount Emei.
Back then, there were no mobile apps, no way to book rooms in advance, and we hadn't even made any plans. I just brought an old backpack, stuffed it with some snacks, and carried a point-and-shoot camera, setting off from Leshan. A 10-yuan bus ride dropped us at the scenic area entrance. After getting off, we asked a random passerby and started our hike.
Starting from Fuhu Temple, we climbed and snapped photos all the way. At Qingyin Pavilion, we visited the ecological monkey zone. We heard there were two routes up the mountain—one via Wannian Temple and Xixiang Pond to Leidongping; the other via the ecological monkey zone and the Ninety-Nine Bends. Greedily wanting to experience both, we went through the monkey zone, turned back, and then climbed up from Wannian Temple.
That day, we climbed for over ten hours straight. By the time we reached Leidongping, it was completely dark. We looked for several hotels, but all were fully booked. Finally, we found one that wanted 400 yuan a night. In 2007, as a broke fresh graduate, 400 yuan was an astronomical price. But we had no choice—we hadn't brought thick clothes, let alone a tent. So we gritted our teeth and checked in.
The next morning, we got up at 3 a.m. and continued climbing. My legs weren't mine anymore, but the drive was still there. In two hours, we made it from Leidongping to the Golden Summit in one go. We arrived a little after 5 a.m., waiting to see the sunrise. But then it started to rain.
That trip didn't yield any ideal photos; it was even a bit miserable. But it's the one I remember most vividly—the first time I hiked the entire Mount Emei. Now, when I look at a map of Mount Emei, every route feels so familiar—all gifts from that hiking trip.
2011: Snow-Covered Emei, a Stunning Moment in Time
Fast forward to the last day of 2011, December 31. This time, I didn't choose the self-torturing hike. Instead, I drove straight to the foot of the mountain, took a sightseeing bus to Leidongping, and then transferred to a cable car to the Golden Summit. Easy and comfortable, but it also lacked some of the thrill of adventure.
But this time, the heavens gave me a huge compensation—the sunrise, the sea of clouds, the stars, and the snow-covered Emei. That was the first time I realized: the most beautiful season on Mount Emei is actually winter.
Moreover, from December 15 to January 15 each year, Mount Emei implements off-peak ticket prices, with both entrance fees and cable car tickets at half the usual rate. Fewer people, stunning scenery, and saving money—why not?
That time, I saw for the first time on the Golden Summit Mount Gongga—the King of Sichuan Mountains. At sunrise, the peak of Gongga turned golden, the legendary "Sunshine on the Golden Mountain." Though it was a bit far, the awe was unforgettable.
2014: A Lucky Third Time
In 2014, I went up to the Golden Summit for the third time. My luck was still solid—sunrise, sea of clouds, stars—none were missed. I began to believe that Mount Emei favored me.
2016: Mount Emei in the High-Speed Rail Era
In 2016, at the start of the new year, I set off on my journey to Mount Emei once again. This time, transportation was more convenient than ever—a high-speed intercity train went directly to the foot of Mount Emei, taking just one hour and ten minutes from Chengdu.
I chose a more economical option: taking a green train (slow train) there for 23.5 yuan, two and a half hours, cramped and crowded; and taking a bullet train back for 65 yuan, one hour, comfortable and fast. If you're in a hurry, the bullet train is definitely the first choice.
Accommodation Recommendations: The Perfect Two-Day, One-Night Plan
For the best itinerary on Mount Emei, I recommend three days and two nights: one night at the foot of the mountain, and one night on the Golden Summit. That way, you can enjoy the hot springs at the base without missing the scenery at the top.
At the foot of the mountain, I recommend the Mount Emei Grand Hotel. As a three-star hotel, it has all the facilities, and guests can enjoy the hot springs for free. There are hot spring pools of all sizes to choose from. I've stayed there twice. Right next to the hotel is the famous food street—Mount Emei's cuisine is definitely worth a try.
On the Golden Summit, of course, I recommend the Golden Summit Grand Hotel. Although the conditions can't compare to those at the foot, it's the best available on the top. What's most commendable is the heating—outside, it's tens of degrees below zero, but inside, you can take off your coat immediately without any problem.
Scenery: Winter Emei, the Purest Beauty
Sea of Clouds: A Boundless White Ocean
I've seen seas of clouds in many places, but my favorite is still Mount Emei's. In winter, the sea of clouds is denser and more stable. From the Golden Summit, it stretches endlessly, as if the entire world has been submerged in a soft white blanket. When the wind blows, the cloud currents flow like a river, sometimes revealing distant peaks—a scene that feels both surreal and deeply calming. For photographers, this is the ultimate reward after braving the cold.
Starry Sky: A Covenant Under the Winter Night
Winter nights on Mount Emei are cold—temperatures can drop to -15°C or lower. But the air is crisp and clear, offering some of the best stargazing in Sichuan. I set up my tripod on the Golden Summit and used time-lapse photography to capture the stars tracing arcs across the sky. The Milky Way was faintly visible, and occasionally a shooting star streaked by. Standing there, shivering but mesmerized, I felt a profound connection to the universe. This is the Mount Emei starry sky that keeps travelers coming back.
Sunrise: The Golden Moment
Waking up at 5 a.m. in winter is never easy, but the Mount Emei sunrise makes it worth every lost hour of sleep. As the first light breaks over the horizon, the sea of clouds turns from gray to pink, then gold. When the sun finally emerges, it casts a warm glow over the Golden Summit's temples and statues. On clear days, you can even see Mount Gongga in the distance, its peak catching the early light in a phenomenon locals call "Sunshine on the Golden Mountain."
Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Mount Emei in Winter
Q: When is the best time to visit Mount Emei for snow and stars? A: Winter—specifically from December to February—offers the best combination of snow-covered landscapes, stable sea of clouds, and clear night skies for stargazing.
Q: How do I get to Mount Emei from Chengdu? A: The high-speed train from Chengdu East Station to Mount Emei Station takes about 1 hour 10 minutes and costs around 65 yuan. A slower green train takes 2.5 hours for 23.5 yuan. [Link: Chengdu to Mount Emei transport guide]
Q: Is it worth staying overnight on the Golden Summit? A: Absolutely. Staying overnight allows you to catch both the sunset and sunrise, and—on clear winter nights—the stars. The Golden Summit Grand Hotel is the best option, with reliable heating.
Q: What should I pack for a winter trip to Mount Emei? A: Thermal layers, a windproof jacket, gloves, a hat, and sturdy waterproof shoes are essential. Don't forget a headlamp for early morning hikes and a tripod if you plan to photograph the stars.
Q: Are there any budget tips for visiting Mount Emei? A: Yes! From December 15 to January 15, entrance fees and cable car tickets are at half price. Traveling on weekdays also means fewer crowds. [Link: Mount Emei budget travel tips]
Your Turn: Plan Your Own Mount Emei Adventure
A decade of visits has taught me that Mount Emei is never the same twice. Whether you're a first-time hiker chasing the sunrise or a seasoned photographer hunting the stars, this sacred peak has something to offer every season—but winter holds a special magic.
Start planning your trip today. Book your high-speed train from Chengdu, reserve a room at the Golden Summit Grand Hotel, and pack your warmest gear. Then, stand on the Golden Summit as the sea of clouds rolls beneath you and the stars emerge above. I promise you—it will be a reunion you'll never forget.
Ready to experience the winter wonder of Mount Emei? Share your travel plans or questions in the comments below!
