Meeting Xiamen Again: Five Years Later, I Finally Understood Your Tenderness – A Journey of Rediscovery

Meta Description: Discover the magic of Xiamen travel in this personal journey of rediscovery. From Huaxin Road villas to Tulou architecture, explore why this coastal city deserves a second chance. Plan your Xiamen itinerary now.

Introduction: Why Xiamen Demands a Second Visit

Some places you visit for the first time are just a stopover; the second time is a true reunion. For me, Xiamen is exactly that kind of place.

Five years ago, I arrived at this coastal city with a broken heart, only to leave with even deeper disappointment. The drizzly Gulangyu Island, the empty alleyways, even the sound of a piano seemed to be telling someone's story of farewell. But this time, everything changed.

In this comprehensive Xiamen travel guide, I'll share how a second visit transformed my perspective—and how you can experience the same tenderness that I finally understood after half a decade. Whether you're planning a Xiamen vacation or seeking hidden gems in Fujian, this article covers everything from boutique hotels to UNESCO-listed Tulou buildings.

Starting Anew: The Story Begins on Huaxin Road

Xiamen's Hidden "Little Gulangyu"

March in Xiamen is as changeable as a temperamental child, sunny one moment and rainy the next. But this unpredictability only adds to the city's charm.

Huaxin Road isn't far from Zhongshan Road, but it feels like a world apart. In the 1950s, when overseas Chinese from Southeast Asia returned to help build the country, the Xiamen municipal government allocated this area for them to settle. Dozens of old villas were built over time, gradually forming this collection of buildings with distinct Southeast Asian charm.

Today, some of these villas have become private restaurants, others have been converted into cafés, guesthouses, studios, and bookstores. As you walk along the streets, the air itself seems to carry an artistic vibe. [Link: Best boutique hotels in Xiamen]

Where to Stay: Ye She (Leaf House) Boutique Hotel

The hotel we stayed at, Ye She (Leaf House), is located at No. 21 Huaxin Road—a boutique hotel converted from a standalone old villa. I'd seen it online many times before, and finally got to stay here. The room was done in a simple Japanese style, with comfortable bedding and L'Occitane toiletries.

Every morning, opening the third-floor window revealed the villa clusters on Huaxin Road and the distant skyline of downtown Xiamen. At that moment, I thought to myself: This is what Xiamen should look like.

Pro tip: Book early during peak seasons—this hotel fills up fast for its unique blend of history and modern comfort.

Cat Street Around the Corner: A Pleasant Surprise

Dingaozi Cat Street: A Photographer's Paradise

The next day, we had planned to visit the botanical garden, but the rain kept falling. I quickly looked up Dingaozi Cat Street online—it wasn't far from Shapowei—so we decided to take a chance.

Cat Street isn't big; you can walk through it in twenty minutes. But for someone who loves taking photos, even an hour isn't enough. Cat motifs are everywhere: sculptures, graffiti walls, cat paw prints on lampposts… the entire street is filled with a healing, soothing atmosphere.

Must-try food: Our guide recommended a food stall called "Cat Street Rice Balls." Although the shop was tiny, there was a long queue. I ordered a kimchi chicken fillet and egg rice ball. The first bite told me the wait was worth it.

The Best Photo Spot in Cat Street

At the far end of Cat Street, there's a staircase that strongly reminded me of Hong Kong or Jiufen in Taiwan—it's the best spot on the entire street for photos, in my opinion. The rain stopped, and sunlight leaked through the clouds, casting light on the mottled walls. At that moment, I pressed the shutter and felt a sudden shift inside me: This trip is starting to get interesting.

[Link: Top Instagram-worthy spots in Xiamen]

Shapowei: Five Years, a World of Change

From Fishing Village to Art District

I remember visiting Shapowei five years ago and seeing moored fishing boats and a somewhat dilapidated pier. This time, it had completely transformed.

If Xiamen is artistic, then Shapowei is the heart of that artistry. Every alley and street is lined with beautiful cafés, creative shops, and art spaces. Belle and I wandered over from Cat Street, stopping and starting, snapping photos nonstop.

Evening at Shapowei Art West District

In the evening, the Shapowei Art West District had an arts and crafts market, selling all kinds of interesting little items. I bought a handmade leather pendant, and Belle found a pair of vintage earrings. I have to say, Xiamen's creative industry has been ahead of its time for years.

And the now hugely popular KOL milk tea in Xiamen—I actually first tried it in Chengdu. Returning to Shapowei five years later, the changes were so dramatic that my impression of Xiamen gradually shifted—from disappointment to surprise, from resistance to acceptance.

[Link: Ultimate Shapowei food guide]

Fulfilling a Dream from Big Fish & Begonia: Visiting Tulou in Zhangzhou

Planning Your Tulou Day Trip

On the fourth day, the weather forecast predicted rain, so we decided to avoid the city center and head to Zhangzhou to see the Tulou (earthen buildings).

Five years ago, I stumbled upon the Yongding Tulou by accident. After watching the animated film Big Fish & Begonia, I had always wanted to revisit the Tulou, but this time I wanted to go to Nanjing County. It takes three hours to drive from Xiamen to Nanjing, and doing it on your own requires at least two days. We didn't want to lug our luggage around, so we booked a one-day small-group tour to Yunshuiyao Ancient Town through a travel platform.

At 8:30 a.m., a G.O. (guide-organizer) picked us up at the hotel in a seven-seat van. There were four other guests on board. We fell into a daze as soon as we got in, and three hours later, we arrived in Zhangzhou.

Hegui Lou: A Miracle Built on a Swamp

Hegui Lou was built in the tenth year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1732) and is the tallest Tulou in Nanjing County. This Tulou was constructed on a swamp, using over 200 pine logs as piles and foundations. After more than 200 years, it remains sturdy and well-preserved. Each floor has 28 rooms, for a total of 140 rooms. A single gate opens at the center, with staircases on the east, west, south, and north sides.

We toured Hegui Lou before the tourist groups arrived. Then, the G.O. led us on foot toward Yunshuiyao, passing two mysterious Tulou along the way—Jinshi Lou (Scholar's Tower) and Cuimei Lou (Jade Beauty Tower). Compared to Hegui Lou, these felt more lived-in. Residents still occupy the buildings, with drying laundry, potted plants at the doorways, children's toys scattered about… everything felt so real.

[Link: Complete guide to Fujian Tulou]

Yunshuiyao: The Romance of a Film

The movie Yunshuiyao (The Knot) put this ancient town on the map, and it was later renamed after the film. I deliberately bought a shirt similar to one worn in Big Fish & Begonia and took a few photos in the old town. The large waterwheel is the iconic photo spot. Despite the crowds, the photos turned out pretty well.

Huaiyuan Lou: My Favorite Round Tulou

A short drive from Yunshuiyao brought us to Huaiyuan Lou, which I thought was the most beautiful Tulou of the morning. The name Huaiyuan Lou has three meanings: longing for distant loved ones; the fact that the building's owners originally came from the distant "Huai" region in Henan; and a reminder to the Jian family to cultivate far-reaching ambitions.

It cost five yuan to go upstairs, but it was money well spent—the view from above was fantastic! Standing on the upper floor, looking down at the entire circular structure, I suddenly understood why Big Fish & Begonia chose Tulou as its setting.

Hekeng Tulou Cluster: An Unexpected Delight

In the afternoon, our G.O. took us to the Hekeng Tulou Cluster. There were no tourists here at all, and it became my favorite spot of the day. Our guide led us up a hill to overlook the entire cluster. The layout, resembling the Big Dipper, was truly spectacular!

At the end of the tour, I captured some of my favorite photos of the entire trip. If you come to Fujian, don't skip this hidden gem.

[Link: Best photography spots in Fujian Tulou]

FAQ: Planning Your Xiamen Trip

Q1: When is the best time to visit Xiamen?

A: March to May and October to November offer the most pleasant weather. March is particularly special—the city is less crowded, and the unpredictable rain adds a romantic, misty atmosphere to the streets and gardens.

Q2: How many days do you need for a Xiamen trip?

A: For a comprehensive experience, plan 4-5 days. This allows 2 days for the city (Huaxin Road, Shapowei, Gulangyu), 1 day for a Tulou day trip, and 1-2 days for relaxation or exploring nearby attractions.

Q3: Can you visit Fujian Tulou in one day from Xiamen?

A: Yes, but choose a small-group tour or private driver. A well-organized day trip covers Hegui Lou, Yunshuiyao, Huaiyuan Lou, and Hekeng Tulou Cluster—but expect a 3-hour drive each way.

Q4: What should I eat in Xiamen?

A: Don't miss: Cat Street Rice Balls (kimchi chicken fillet & egg), KOL milk tea, Shapowei seafood, and traditional snacks like oyster omelet and satay noodles.

Q5: Is Xiamen good for solo travelers?

A: Absolutely. The city is safe, walkable, and full of cafés and creative spaces perfect for solo exploration. The Tulou day trips also offer easy social opportunities with small groups.

Conclusion: Your Xiamen Journey Awaits

Five years ago, Xiamen broke my heart. This time, it healed it.

From the quiet charm of Huaxin Road's old villas to the vibrant creativity of Shapowei, from the whimsical Cat Street to the awe-inspiring Tulou of Zhangzhou—this city revealed its tenderness slowly, like an old friend finally opening up.

Whether you're nursing a broken heart, seeking creative inspiration, or simply craving a coastal escape, Xiamen will meet you exactly where you are. But here's the secret: you have to be willing to give it—and yourself—a second chance.

Ready to discover Xiamen's tenderness? Start planning your trip today. Book your boutique hotel on Huaxin Road, reserve a Tulou day tour, and pack your camera. The city is waiting to rewrite your story.

[Link: Best Xiamen travel deals] | [Link: Book your Tulou tour now]